Riga, packing cubes, and is it an airport or a shopping mall?
I never dreamed I’d visit any of the Baltic countries, but the capital of Latvia was the next stop on our cruise.
Riga was full of old-world charm, and we made a short walk from where our ship docked into the Old Town. Our first stop was at the Museum of the Occupation of Latvia, which documents the 55 years of the 20th c. when Latvia was occupied twice by the Soviet Union, and by the Nazis in between. Much like the House of Terror in Budapest that I visited in 2021, this recently-renovated and now state-of-the-art museum makes sure no visitor will have any doubts as to the brutality that both these regimes inflicted on the citizenry. It uses multi-media technology to tell the story of how Hitler and Stalin divided up Europe between them (Hitler got Poland, Stalin got the Baltics, then Hitler came back for them), and mountains of personal artifacts – photos, uniforms, letters, etc. to tell the stories of those murdered, tortured and sent to camps in Siberia. In a stroke of irony, the museum is housed in an ugly Soviet-era building, jarring on the edge of the medieval square. The museum is sobering at best and disturbing at worst, as well it should be. I feel like it’s not fair to enjoy all the “pretty” parts of a country and a culture without also learning about the ugly parts.
This story is particularly relevant to all Europeans since the invasion of Ukraine. The museum has a display on the Holodomor, the Soviet genocide in Ukraine during the 1930s. The Baltic countries have a special sensitivity to this, since there are large populations of ethnic Russians there. During the Soviet era, it was a popular place for military officers to retire, as they had a higher standard of living than the rest of the Soviet Union. About 25% of Latvians are ethnic Russians, and 1/3 of the population of Riga is as well. They tend to live in their own enclaves, sending their children to Russian schools, and do not speak the local language. I can only image the tensions that must exist since the invasion of Ukraine.
One of the things we were most looking forward to was the Riga Central Market – 4 WWI-era Zeppelin hangers where locals buy their foodstuffs – meat, fish, vegetables, flowers, etc. It was spectacular!
The other biggie to see in Riga is the Art Nouveau district. Art Nouveau, as you will, of course, remember, is defined as an art and design movement that grew out of the Arts and Crafts movement of the late 19th Century. Art Nouveau highlighted curvaceous lines, often inspired by plants and flowers, as well as geometric patterns. Art Deco was a sprawling design sensibility that wound its way through numerous early 20th Century art and design forms, from fine art and architecture to fashion and furniture, as well as everyday appliances and even modes of transportation. (per History.com) And yours truly has always adored it!
Today, Art Nouveau architecture accounts for one third of all the buildings in the centre of Riga, making it the city with the highest concentration of such buildings anywhere in the world. Most of the buildings (multi-story apartment blocks) were built from the late 1890s to the early 19-teens. Albert Street was our destination, where almost every building is a superb example. You will see why I got a crick in my neck from looking up at them!
One of the biggest aids I’ve found for travelling on a trip like this are packing cubes. My niece, who used to travel a lot, put me on to them years ago, and now my husband and I wouldn’t dream of travelling without them. There is a big variety available on Amazon, but here is an example.
You can use them so many different ways. For example, if you’re spending one night on the road before you get to your destination, you can pack what you need for that overnight in one of the cubes and have that sitting in the top of the suitcase – that way, you don’t have to unpack everything for one night. You could use a separate one for each day if you wished, with the entire outfit, undies, accessories, etc. I like to put all underwear – bras, panties and socks in one of the smallest ones, then use a larger one for tops, one for bottoms, one for dresses, one for nightie/robe/leisure wear, maybe one for sweaters & jackets. The first one to get emptied becomes the dirty clothes bag.
You can get a LOT more in each cube if you start with a folded item and then carefully roll it into a tube. It also minimizes wrinkles!
A trend that you see in European and UK airports these days is that once you get through security, you find yourself in what is basically a huge shopping mall, with bars/restaurants and designer stores, but precious few places to just sit down. Your gate assignment is not announced until about 30 minutes before your flight departs! Then, woe betide you if you have to get to a different terminal – the great sprint-with-carry-ons ensues.
I first saw this about 6 years ago in Edinburgh, and this summer saw it in Heathrow and Copenhagen. I can only guess that it’s so that you’ll buy more stuff (and food & drink) because you have nowhere else to go and nothing to do. I have not seen it in US airports, but I’m guessing I will as they renovate and remodel, because it’s profitable. I’ll bet they’ll tell you your gate sooner, for an upcharge! Have you seen this, and what do you think?
10 Comments
Michelle Mosley
Beautifully written Mary Katherine. I too have used packing cubes. Years ago I found compression packing cubes, where you are able to squeeze the air out the cube. This has been my downfall believe it or not. Now I can pack even more, but my luggage becomes too heavy for me! 😂
I still love them though. I use blue painters tape and write what’s inside. I use both methods you described. I have one cube labeled airport or train. For the rest of my items, I pack and label according to categories, pants, dresses etc.
Now if I could only learn not to pack everything I own, I’d be happy. 😂
mkmiller
Michelle, you are so Of My Tribe!!! I think magnetism of the universe had me take that empty seat next to you on the ship…I will be picking your brain for more travel hacks!
Connie Wright Stanley
M.K.
Thanks for sharing. Love the info and photos. A friend clued me into packing cubes as well. I am a cheap skate and bought heavy duty super size zip loc bags. I sit on them to flatten and if things are in tubes they are not wrinkled and I can easily see what is in each. Still thinking about getting some of the real thing but sadly we don’t travel much.
Great info and beautiful photos. The veggie market was so lovely.
Connie
mkmiller
Thanks for the nice feedback, friend! You can travel vicariously here 😉 I’ve also recently read of a great trick with those gallon-sized Ziplocks – putting them in the seatback pocket on the plane, so you don’t have to touch the insides (which the person before you used as a wastebasket) And yes, you can really flatten stuff down in them.
Janet Replogle
Great post! You really lucked out with the weather on this trip – beautiful pictures. I’m still fairly new to packing cubes having used them for two big trips now. Nice to know my instincts for packing follow yours – tops in one, bottoms in another, underwear in its own. Like Michelle’s idea of painter’s tape to label them – clever! I definitely experienced the shopping mall phenomenon at Heathrow in June. Not much at all in Vancouver.
mkmiller
We really couldn’t have gotten luckier with the weather – so grateful! Yes, the labelling of whatever bags you use – ziplocks or packing cubes – is genius. I can’t wait for the next trip to use all the great ideas I’m getting!
Suzanne
Hi MK, this is a beautifully written piece and I love your accompanying photographs. I agree that when traveling you must see, and share the bad with the good. Of course, I’d rather spend my days wandering awestruck through the ‘pretty parts’ of town, while grazing local markets, but that’s just part of the story.
I haven’t used packing cubes yet, but have considered purchasing a couple to try them out. I am extremely fond of the gallon-size zip lock baggy and have a multitude of uses for them.
My daughter did some damage in Heathrow the last time we came through there. She knows what she wants and the prices she would pay back in the US are much higher, so why not take advantage of the downtime? I, on the other hand, am content to sit in one of the lounges and sip coffee, or a Mimosa. We have a couple of credit cards (Hilton Honors and Chase) that allow access to the priority lounges, so we usually check in there as soon as we arrive at the airport. It is a comfortable place to hang out, and an attendant will keep you up to date on gates, delays, etc. That might be something to look into for your next trip.
mkmiller
Suzanne – I’m so glad you enjoyed it! I’ve just learned about using the giant ziplocks in the seatback pocket on the plane, that will have been the previous passenger’s wastebasket – so you can get to all your stuff and not touch the yuck – brilliant! I’ve got to get a good travel credit card, and that’s one of the major perks I forget about – thanks!
jodie filogomo
I love that point about seeing the good and bad parts of history about a place. I never thought of it that way.
And packing cube? OMG, I remember when someone first showed them to me, and I totally didn’t get it. Now, I don’t travel without them. Once you use them, you know!!
I would not enjoy that part about the airports because we like to get to our gate early and relax. What are they thinking?? Ugh. I hope that’s not the trend here.
OXOX
Jodie
mkmiller
I’m curious what airport you fly back from on your cruise, Jodie? I’ll be curious to see if they do it there. My commenter Suzanne also points out the priority lounges that certain credit cards or loyalty rewards give you. I’ve really got to start using a credit card for airline miles – next on my To Do list…