Copenhagen
We had the most wonderful trip in June, and there’s so much I want to tell you about it, including some of the things I did and used that made the trip better.
We were taking a cruise from Copenhagen, but wanted some time to see the city first, so we arrived a couple of days ahead of time and stayed in the Hotel Go Saga, a perfect little 2-star hotel right behind the train station. Our room was up 2 flights, small as expected, but with high ceilings, a window that opened onto a courtyard, a modern bathroom and all scrupulously clean – for $150/night! We had expected much more expensive hotels. We were right around the corner from the Hotel Nebo, where my friend Laura Lee and my roommate Allison and I stayed in 1983. Everything certainly seems more upscale than in those days.
The first thing that struck me (almost literally!) was the bicycles! I’d always heard about them in Amsterdam, but here EVERYONE seemed to be riding them. Not just bikes, but bikes pulling baby carriages, wagons of cargo, dogs – everything. You’d see a man pedalling with his wife and 2 children in the compartment in front. It all seemed fun enough in the gorgeous weather, but I struggle to visualize it in the winter or even a pouring rain.
Taxes on cars are extremely high – once as high as 180%, but now could be as “low” as 70%. Every street and path had a bike lane, and it was usually one step over from the pedestrian sidewalk. The bikes are silent and seldom use their bells, and I was certain that either Glenn or I would inadvertently step into the path of one with catastrophic results, but we emerged unscathed.
Some of the lovely sights we saw included Rosenborg Castle (Rosenborg Slot), which felt very renaissance and cosy, surrounded by a park full of sunbathers, and with the Danish crown jewels twinkling in the basement. We strolled along the de rigeur Nyhavn, where my girlfriends and I had eaten at a Chinese restaurant those 40 years ago, and had met another American girl who was seeing Europe on a Eurail pass, travelling in sleeper cars at night and saving on hotels. We let her have a shower in our hotel room before she got on the train to Stockholm, and she was so grateful!
We walked around Amalienborg Palace, the residence of the Danish royal family, then stopped for a smorrebrod at a cafe in a tiny park.
We paid a visit to the Carlsburg Glypotech, an art museum housing the collection of the founder of the Carlsburg beer empire.
I’d always wanted to visit Tivoli Gardens, the oldest amusement park in Europe. It’s a charming combination of modern rides, beautiful gardens, music venues and restaurants. We had a wonderful supper out under the trees.
One of the most interesting parts of the city (and Glenn’s favorite) was Freetown Christiana – a neighborhood originally an abandoned military barracks that was taken over by squatters in the 1970s. It is an active commune of about 1,000 residents, with no cars allowed within its boundaries, and a thriving trade in marijuana. Would-be residents have to apply to live there, and must possess skills that the community needs (there is a waiting list). It is now evidently the #2 tourist attraction in Copenhagen, after The Little Mermaid (which I found underwhelming 40 years ago, and we skipped this time). We stopped for food and drink at an open-air restaurant that had “smoking” and “non-smoking” tables, if you get my drift…
We ended up with about two full days in Copenhagen, and I would’ve enjoyed a couple more. It was a great start to our time in Europe, and the locals could not have been more friendly and helpful.
It was my first trip using this travel bag. I had purchased one for my husband when he went on a trip a couple of years ago and I was worried about pickpockets. I bought one for myself just before this trip, and carried it every day, as you can see in the photos below. You’ll also see his in his photos (mine is light gray, his is charcoal, so we never mixed them up…)
It is perfect for carrying phone, passport, travel docs, lipstick and glasses cases. It’s designed to be worn underneath a jacket, so it’s flatter, and would not be good for water bottles or bulkier items. I liked that it sat in front, just above my hip, and my hand could rest on it. I liked not carrying a backpack, but it wasn’t good for shoving a jacket in when the day warmed. Nevertheless, it will be making a lot of future trips with me, I can tell!
Have you been to Copenhagen, or is it on your list? Let me know in the comments.
16 Comments
Suzanne
I love the way you referenced your flashbacks from then to now. It is always fun to revisit a place we saw in our youth to see how it compares. We visited Copenhagen a few years ago on a whirlwind trip to the Netherlands to visit the tulip fields. It is a fun city and one that I could easily return to. The Mermaid was underwhelming, but the scenic walk to get there was fun for us.
mkmiller
Thanks, Suzanne! I am enjoying revisiting places I saw as a 20-something, to see how they, and I, have changed! Wouldn’t it be fun to spend a week (or a month) there?
David Iorio
I was in Copenhagen for part of one evening and day when I got stuck in Europe on 9/11. I was with my manager and he always wanted to go to Iceland but his wife did not, so we took the time after catching a flight out of Copenhagen to see Iceland. I found several women in Copenhagen that looked a lot like my wife Karin. Did you happen to notice that too?
mkmiller
Yes David, there were “Karins” everywhere! I’d love to hear the story of your “stranding” on 9/11 – what bizarre and tragic times. A cruise from Iceland to Norway is on my radar now…
Karin Iorio
It looks like a wonderful trip. I have wanted to go to Copenhagen for many years, now even more. Thank you for sharing your adventure and tips.
mkmiller
You would especially love the art and Scandi style, Karin! I hope you make it there soon, and can spend a few days.
Penny
That looks like a great trip Mary and I’ve heard that the Little Mermaid is underwhelming. That alternative commune though sounds so interesting! I’ve already booked a cruise for next year and that will go to Copenhagen – just for a day though, but even so I shall wander around (not going on an excursion – don’t like those as theyr’e too ‘organised’) and try and avoid the bikes!
Very interesting post
mkmiller
Penny – I totally agree about the excursions – would much rather do some research and be on my own. The cruise port where we embarked & disembarked for our cruise was in the far north of the city, with very limited public transport options. So you’ll probably need to at least take the cruise’s shuttle bus into town, or a taxi, but there were plenty of those. Although, if it’s just one of the ports on your itenerary, there may be a pier closer to city center. Regardless, I know you’ll have a wonderful time, and will look forward to hearing all about your cruise!
jodie filogomo
It would be interesting to see how people get around in the snowy and bad weather days. Is there Uber there??
The village (that was Glenn’s favorite) sounds very interesting. Possibly your next home? LOL.
What a wonderful time and a great suggestion about the bag. I have to consider that for our upcoming cruise and excursions.
OXOX
Jodie
mkmiller
I would highly recommend that bag, especially in areas of southern Europe where pickpockets are a problem. I only wished I’d taken a cute clutch for evenings on the ship! Lessons learned for next time…
LinaJean Armstrong
Wonderful recap of your visit to a beauty city. Can’t wait to hear more about your trip.
mkmiller
Thanks, Lina Jean! Can’t wait for a good chat over dinner tomorrow night!
hena
Looks like a fabulous time.. we were in Copenhagen some years ago and loved the city.
mkmiller
Thanks, Hena – I’m anxious to visit Norway next!
Gail
I enjoyed your post. I visited Denmark for 2 or 3 days on a week long 3 country tour of Scandinavia. I remember the Tivoli Gardens and Nyhavn. Thanks for linking at Is This Mutton
mkmiller
That’s about all I remembered from my previous visits, Gail! Glad you enjoyed Copenhagen and the post.