Hello, Mother Ocean! It’s been a bit too long…

I’m one of those people who feels a deep connection with the ocean, despite not growing up anywhere near it. Maybe that lack of proximity is what has made me feel that unless I can get my feet into seawater at least once every twelve months, my soul begins to shrivel. I realize this also is evidence of my privilege – that in my adult life, I have been able to afford to do this for the last 20 years. I do not, by the way, take this for granted.

I grew up “going to the beach” at Nags Head, North Carolina – the Graveyard of the Atlantic, the Lost Colony, the Wright Brothers – lots to see and do, and it’s become pretty pricey in recent years. I needed someplace less crowded and less expensive for this last-minute trip, and Kure Beach fit the bill. (It’s pronounced “cure-ee” – like the “cure” for a disease…) The beach was as familiar to me as those of my childhood – tawny sand, grey-green water, shells pulverized to bits by the waves, stiff ocean breeze and unrelenting sunshine, local mom & pop restaurants, families who’ve come here for generations.

The place we rented through AirBnB was exactly what we needed – one bedroom, steps from beach access, off-street parking, covered outdoor seating, an outdoor shower and places to hang wet towels and clothing. It had 1 bedroom with 2 double beds, 1 bathroom with tub/shower, and a kitchen/dining area/living room. It was clean and adequately furnished, without any extra frills, but with everything we needed. For high season, it was worth the price. It was a 15-minute walk up the beach to the Kure Beach pier, where there were a couple of restaurants. A 5-minute drive took you to shops, and it was a 30-minute drive into Wilmington, the closest big town. It has been owned by the same family for 80 years, and the current house replaces a previous one destroyed by a hurricane in 1989.

A couple of blocks south was Fort Fisher, at the end of the barrier island. During the Civil War, a Confederate fort guarded the entrance to the Cape Fear River and Wilmington, the last port accessible to the blockade-running ships of the South. There is a visitors center and many historical markers. There is a state park with a public beach that was very popular. There is a North Carolina Aquarium, which was unfortunately closed due to the pandemic. There is also a car ferry that takes cars down to Oak Island, which was also not running. There’s also an Air Force recreation area with cabins, equipment rental, etc., attached to Seymour Johnson Air Force Base. Even with the closures, it was a lovely place to walk around, that we really enjoyed.

We happened to have close friends from home staying the same week one hour away in Oak Island, and one day we rendezvous-ed for a half-day sailing trip in Southport aboard the Endless Summer, a 37 foot sailing ship. We were blessed with gorgeous weather, and sailed for 4 hours for $60 per person, with Captain Jim and his first mate providing water, soft drinks, beer and wine – a real bargain. We brought our own sandwiches for lunch. We took turns at the helm, raising the sails and listening to Jim’s running commentary on the scenic Southport harbor, huge container ships heading to Europe, the tidal marsh and marine forest and other marine lore. He was obviously an expert sailor who knew the waters well. For those who enjoy the water (me!), it could not have been more enjoyable. We disembarked, sun-kissed, full and happy, with money well-spent.

The tiny harbor town of Southport was charming, full of historic seafarer’s homes, and cute shops and restaurants. All the shops required masks, and we stopped first in Lantan’s Gallery, where salesclerk Briton had a mask that matched her skirt! We had great ice cream and got t-shirts in Southport Market, then were enthralled in Bullfrog Corner – the best toy shop I have EVER seen!

Aside from day trips to sail, to Wilmington and to hang with the friends on Oak Island, we enjoyed lounging on the sand and swimming in the warm water. It was balm for the soul after the winter, then the trials of Covid-19 and the dumpster-fire that is 2020 so far. I loved getting up to see the sun rise and walk the deserted beach every morning. If you’d like to read about what we ATE on this trip, click here.

Kure Beach is very family-friendly, with nothing on the beach higher than 3 stories, no high-rises or noisy bars. I saw ONE piece of trash on the beach the whole time we were there – a wrapper that had blown out of someone’s hand. Cleanest beach EVER.

We also saw at least two sea-turtle nests marked off and patrolled several times a day. I met two of the volunteer turtle guardians, who log and document when eggs are laid, when they hatch, how many eggs hatch, etc. I would love to do that if I lived there.

As luck would have it, we set out for home the day before Hurrican Isaias rolled in as a Category 1, leaving some damage but not as bad as many previous storms.

This beach getaway was the cure to whatever ailed me, and I’ll be grateful for it all year long. I’d recommend Kure Beach heartily to anyone looking for a quiet time with Mother Ocean. I hope you all get the cure to whatever ails YOU this year!