Budapest part 2

This is the 3rd post in a series about my recent trip to Hungary – my first international trip in several years, and if you’re as travel-starved as I was, I hope you’ll enjoy these tales. See here for the Christmas-y parts and here for the first bit about Budapest.

A stop not to be missed in Budapest is the Great Market Hall. When I learned it was built in 1897, it really struck me that Hungary must have been awash with money in the 1890s – early 1900s – the great parliament building was going up, this building, the zoo, the St. Gellert spa and others, and a whole wave of buildings both decorative and dedicated to leisure. The market is in the city center and mere blocks from the Marriott hotel, where our river cruise ship was docked, St. Stephen’s Cathedral and many other attractions, It has that train-station-type architecture I’ve seen in historic market halls in Chicago and our own Findlay Market in Cincinnati.

With 3 stories (I didn’t make it to the bottom level where the fish and seafood were sold), the ground floor sold food and drink of every kind for preparation elsewhere – meat, fruit and vegetables, meat, wine and spirits, spices, cheese, mushrooms and every delicacy you could think of. The number of housewives doing their daily shopping told me the prices were reasonable and not inflated for tourists.

And tourists there were, aplenty! The second floor was split between food stalls selling typical Hungarian food, and tourist goods. We were there on a Saturday, and it was incredibly popular for lunch – standing room only in the upper gallery that ringed the building – your choice of sausages, goulash, anything “paprikash”, and langos – a fried flatbread topped with a number of toppings, although I had mine with cheese and sour cream – perfect with an ice cold beer.

On this floor were wonderful handicrafts – leather purses in every color, intricately embroidered table linens, and the wool cape I knew I had to have the moment I saw it – and went back 3 times just to be sure! They proudly display that everything is made in Hungary – no Chinese knock-offs here…

The fabulous St. Stephen’s Basilica was just a few blocks from our hotel, and I was surprised to learn it is relatively modern – only finished and consecrated in 1905. Our guide Emily told us that during the Communist era, the church was dark and neglected – covered in so much candle soot that it was almost impossible to see anything inside. Restoration was completed in 2003, and the interior now shines as if every surface has just been freshly gilded.

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

A modern amusement which I hadn’t expected was the Budapest “Eye”, a giant ferris wheel like the London Eye. After walking by it several times at night, we had the opportunity to ride during the day for fantastic views. Although the seat appeared to be totally glassed in, they only were to the extent safety demanded – it was still quite FROSTY!

• 

• 

• 

Nevertheless, Stefanie and I jumped on with glee (and with Angie and Brenda) and loved it as much as any child.

Coming next time: